This is a unique tutorial, and I wish to thank our tool maker, Dan-jo, for taking the time to explain this tricky process. As you would expect in such a craft, experience plays a big part in learning how to achieve a result when faced with difficult tasks.

One of the issues that caused some grief was we were using yellow Plasticine (non-drying modeling clay) instead of the usual peach Plasticine Now its not just easier on the eye but the consistency is different. The yellow Plasticine was stickier and much more stubborn when it came to removing it.

More information on creating a Silicone Rubber mould can be found here.

1. The master figure we are using is from our Mithril Miniatures Fellowship series, and is made from modeling clay. First apply with a clean brush a light covering of Vaseline mixed with white spirit (10/90% ratio in that order). This stops the Plasticine sticking to the master. This layer should be almost invisible when finished.
2. Any small gaps that might cause problems with embedding should have a small lump of Plasticine added and that lump should be bulky enough on the hidden side to easily remove after that side of the figure is embedded. Diagram 1 and 2 show areas around the horse that needed filling to create a suitable parting line.
3. IMPORTANT: Keep the Plasticine filler slightly under the halfway line so that the rubber will fill a little more than 50% to get a better grip on the figure.
4. Draw the outline of the master figure on the block of Plasticine you have chosen to use. then carve out that Plasticine to make room for the master. See Diagram 3 for example of how this will look.
5. An experienced tool maker is a bit of a pack rat and keeps lots of old metal ingates to use when needed. You can also make your own from wood or other materials. Ours are metal. Choose one that is at LEAST the same mass as the figure you plan to attach it to. See Diagram 4. Draw outline in Plasticine and carve away the excess as explained above.
6. Use additional ingates if needed to help fill parts that might be difficult. E.g.: Diagram 5 shows the tail of the horse needed an additional ingate to be used.
7. For small parts like the scabbard, shown in Diagram 5, use a scalpel to carve out a small channel ingate into the figure. Pick connecting areas that will not show up the connection. Avoid areas like faces that would damage the look of the final piece. We chose the area that connects the tail with the bottom of the horse.
8. Fill between legs of the horse, as shown in Diagram 6, at an angle, to allow easy removal of rubber and the addition of the metal ball allows the rubber some leeway to move so it does not get trapped between the legs (i.e.: undercut issues) and it also allows us the option of adding additional channels between the base, ball and stomach area of horse if needed in case the horse fails to fill correctly.
9. Our toolmaker uses a custom tool, made from the top of an old walking cane, Diagram 7, to create the pattern shown on the surface of the Plasticine This adds texture and helps prevent slipping of the two halves of the moulds.
10. Mark out the shape of the mould, as shown in the Diagram 5. Leave about 25mm gap between the master figure and the edge of the mould.
11. We now pour the first half of the rubber and wait until it sets. Full info on that process can be found here.
12. Now you need to remove the Plasticine so you can cast the second half of the Silicone rubber without damaging the master figure or the first half of the rubber.
13. Put the mould with the Plasticine into your icebox for about 20 minutes. This helps harden the Plasticine and makes it easier to remove.
14. Do not pull the rubber itself away from the Plasticine as that will ruin the seal (and parting line) it has with the master figure. Use a tool to aid you in VERY gently taking all the Plasticine away before it warms up and sweats. See Diagram 8.
15. To clean the last bits away use a flat ended brush (trimmed with a scissors) and dip into the white spirits and rub it over the rubber mould side to loosen and remove all the remaining Plasticine See Diagram 9.
16. Prepare the rubber for the next stage by adding a light layer of Vaseline mixed with white spirits, otherwise both sides will stick together.
17. The final Diagram 10 shows the first half of the mould ready to begin the next stage for making a Master mould. That tutorial is here.

If you have any questions on this tutorial please email the webmaster

If you are interested in the figure (His name is Theodred, MS497) then look in the Fellowship section of Mithril Miniatures website.